Paco Rabanne Lady Million Dermal sensitizer and allergen. Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. Chanel Coco Caron Narcisse Noir I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. Bobbi Brown Bobbis Party "It turns a scent into a chypre, into a fougere, into an amber. Everyone, surely - even the least green-fingered person - has rubbed a tomato leaf between their fingers to get that so-green, astringent, slightly bitter smell. THOO (The House of Oud) Wonderly Davidoff Cool Water Woman Inspired by the brand's very own Bum Bum Cream fragrance, this sweet blend of pistachio and salted caramel is airy, subtle, and warm. And there are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages. (Vanilloids are also found in cocoa, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and hot peppers which partly explains why theyre all such taste sensations. 5 LOccitane en Provence Lavender Eau de Cologne Commonly, ambrette is used as a substitute for true musk. Givenchy Pi Oscar de la Renta Live in Love Today's savvy perfumers, however, are far from the first to recognise thesheer sensual potential of this 'Queen of Flowers'. Ormonde Jayne Tiar. As well as occurring naturally, though, benzyl alcohol may also be chemically produced from petrochemical sources. But with zero calories. ClarinsEauRessourcante Dior Diorissimo (Although LArtisan Parfumeur built a whole fragrant collection around it), Caron Secret Oud Roja Dove Reckless (We also list this ingredient under E, for Everlasting Flower) All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe; its yellow flowers stay incredibly bright, even after theyve been dried. Creed Neroli Sauvage For many of us, geranium has an incredibly nostalgic scent: the scent of a grandmothers greenhouse, rubbing a furry-leaved plant between our fingertips. It's a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients such as vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, and benzoin," says Medina. Used shorthand for any perfume ingredient derived from natural, non-synthetic sources. But flax has also been used in perfumery as long ago as Egyptian times, as a base note mildly nutty in character. Prada No. Its a fantasy note, of course: as perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'Sugar doesn't exist in perfumery - but sugary facets can be found in synthetic notes called maltol and ethyl maltol'; that sweet and caramel tone is very much used in perfumer, these days. They're like berry clay that you can form and shape in all directions. Prada Infusion de Fleur dOranger Katy Perry Meow But they look fresh, and cheerful, and uplift the spirit and in fragrance marketing, thats can be a useful allusion. A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. Crabtree & Evelyn Gardenia In general, its a fantasy or synthetic note you smell, rather than any essence from cocoa beans themselves but its there for the sheer, pleasurable links with one of mans (and especially womans) most indulgent foods, Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon 9 High Line Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? There is a wood line. (Many naturals are positively timid on the skin.). Crabtree & Evelyn Lily Growing indie fragrance brands like D.S. Yves Saint Laurent Paris, Sweet, almost honeyed, balsamic, peppery: copaiba essential oil is often used in incense. Its not that type of rosewood which perfumers use, with its floral, slightly rose-like odour: thats from the Aniba rosaeodora tree, better known as Brazilian rosewood. You may also be familiar with it from body products and even fabric conditioners: Cashmeran clings, and doesnt rinse out well, leaving traces of its sensuality on the skin after showering, or your bedlinen after laundry day. It all began in Ancient Egypt, where incense was first created using precious gums and resins from trees, imported from the Arabian coast and Somalia. Back then, it was made into hair and face powders, placed into pomanders, and was the basis for delicious perfumed sachets for wearing on the body. Explore which ingredients we select - and avoid. Succulent but somehow creamy and milky. Diluted, blended, civet morphs into something altogether lustily musky and inviting, adding warmth and radiance to floral scents especially, and working as a fixative. Guerlain Idylle It would be nice to think that spritzing on a scent featuring this delicious, little-known ingredient worked the same way. Caron Nocturnes Used with an amber note, it creates a real addiction' And Dior's Perfumer-Creator Franois Demachy adds: 'The tonka bean is a concentrate of sensations and aromas. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille Pepper, is metallic and spiky, sharp. Jasmin Sambac is one of the grande dames of perfumery. Tom Ford Oud Wood. Ethyl butyrate Fruity ingredient derived from orange and pineapple. Lush Orange Blossom For many today people, its still a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, evoking plenty of prejudice. James Heeley Cardinal Neroli (which you can read about under N) is steam-distilled. Register. The hybrid Dutch lavender, or Lavandula intermedia, produces an oil called lavandin, with a sharper and more medicinal odour. A third variety, Narcissus jonquil, can also be used, and in one form or another this beautiful ingredient is said to make its way into as much as 10% of modern fragrances - despite the fact that a staggering 500 kilos of flowers are needed to produce a kilo of concrete, or just 300 g of absolue, making it very pricy. Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh Kiss LArtisan Parfumeur Mon Numro 1 ), and originally native to the Mediterranean. Jo Malone London Orange Blossom Xerjoff Irisss Byredo Accord Oud "Vetiver is proof that upcycling can give amazing products," says perfumer Claire Liegent. They give perfumes a gentle, deep dark, sensuality. The fruit, by contrast, is lush, juicy, ripe and sunny. C13? How cool is that? But its the orgy of white neroli blossoms which get noses really excited: airy, citrussy, green, but with whispers of honey and orange bubbling subtly underneath. It takes around 400 kilos of flowers to produce one kilo of essential oil, and each tree provides around 10 kilos of flowers a year. Nasomatto Black Afgano (Though it was probably LArtisan Parfumeur Vanilia in which caramel made its sugary debut.) Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin It smells like cinnamon. Penhaligons Juniper Sling. There are other heady, rich, sweet flowers that can be used to add magic to perfumery, though. It starts a conversation with the "still small voice of calm". (Its sometimes spelled opopanax, too, with an a.). (Labdanum is today extracted from the leaves using solvents, although the branches can also be boiled.). (I missany experience there, but I imagine what it might be like!) Rituals No. Sniff out a bacon fragrance for yourself, and make up your own mind! Freesia works perfectly to complement lily of the valley, peony, magnolia, but is rarely the shining star of a perfume itself. "Amber provides sophistication and sensuality to a fragrance.". Thebrightness and sparkling fuzziness of citrus, the damp woody, earthybrown vetiver and the sharpness of pepper fit like Coke, fries andburger. So fast does the rose fade, in fact, that some farmers in Turkey and Bulgaria transport their own copper stills to the fields, heating them on the spot over wood fires to distill the precious Damask Rose oil, which separates from the water when heated in only the tiniest of quantities: 170 rose flowers are said to relinquish but a single drop. Often, only the lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt be without it, for the world. Frankincense is incredibly powerful as an ingredient so its only generally used in teensy doses (except in perfumes designed to conjure up the smell of actual incense). The Brooklyn brand's Debaser perfume is a hit thanks to its intoxicating mix of ingredientsand an unexpected boost from the fragrance heads on TikTok. Heliotropes teamed with violets and iris for a talcum-powdery, lipstick-esque sweetness but as you may now have guessed, its actually very versatile, becoming almost mouthwatering when used alongside bitter almond, each ingredient turbo-charging the others marzipan-ish qualities. Jovoy ParisL'Enfant Terrible. But above all, they give depth and sexiness to a fragrance'. Tolu resin is tapped from the trunks of the tall Myroxylon toluiferum tree, which mostly grows in South America and the West Indies: small incisions are made in the bark, from which thick yellow-brown drops are collected. Maison Francis Kurkdjian la rose Clever perfumers know that other woods deliver similar effects, and can be used to replace its richness. Yet try as they might, perfumers have never been able to capture the scent of freesias. ), Grs Fleur de Cabotine Reminscent of jasmine, gardenia and orange blossom, tuberose is often blended alongside those other white flowers. Este Lauder Pleasures Max Mara Max Mara Like quite a few ingredients, though, heliotrope/heliotropins use has been reduced and restricted lately by the International Fragrance Associations regulations (IFRA for short), and some iconic, heavy-on-the-heliotrope fragrances including LArtisan Parfumeurs glorious Jour de Fte have sadly been discontinued, as a result. Clinique Aromatics Elixir (Now that wed have loved to smell), As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'tonka is warm and smooth - but unlike vanilla, it can remind you of hay. Donna Karan DKNY Because when the flowers are over and their perfumes breathed its last black seedpods emerge. Kate Moss Kate Go to the menu . Its dry, cool and bracken-like, adding a green feel to a scent. When a French colonist later came upon a plant in the West Indies that smelled just like that perfume the Plumeira alba plant he named it frangipani. (A tradition wed quite like to see revived!). By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad Produced by small trees (Boswellia genus), it releases a gum-like resin that solidifies into droplets or tears. Gucci Guilty Herms Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan A really expensive fragrance material one of the priciest in the world, in fact - boronia comes from a fragrant shrub native to Australia. (Its also, rather usefully, anti-microbial and anti-flatulant though not in perfume!). Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille. (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). Carita Carita Eau de Parfum Water lily, as a perfume ingredient, is a little like lily lite. Quite aside from its uplifting qualities, yuzu is very useful to perfumers because it prolongs the life of other citrus notes, whose delicious freshness doesnt tend to linger for long. Nowadays, perfumers have to work ever-harder to create a point of difference. And in a fragrance? (Yes, think concentrated cat pee.) Its so powerful, though, that only a touch is needed and perfumers must proceed with caution: the scent in a closed room can be overwhelming. Originating from Mexico, Central America and Columbia, and then hybridised by clever Dutch plant breeders, dozens of species of tuberous dahlia now brighten our summer gardens. 5 Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin That could be heliotrope, too. (We often marvel at who must first have experimented with some of the more unusual elements in perfumery and try to imagine some of the failed experiments, too) Not surprisingly, this carnal, animalic note has since the beginning of the 20th Century for ethical and environmental reasons almost always been recreated synthetically: its really not on to kill an animal to extract a scented oil. ), Also known as olibanum, frankincense is actually a resin from the Boswellia sacra tree, which grows in the Dhofar area of Oman, as well as Yemen. Britney Spears Believe Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Matin Guerlain Iris Ganache. Alien Amouage Angels' Share Ariana Grande Armaf Avon. Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle As perfumer Andy Tauer tells The Perfume Society, 'Lilac in perfumes is the note of spring, the promise of summer.'. Were much, much more than just a website: were a also a subscription organisation for perfume-lovers, offering events (including meet the nose events), courses, sampling opportunities, and a beautiful regular downloadable magazine, The Scented Letter. Because as with that spirit the juniper berry adds a bracing, exhilarating touch to fragrances. LOccitane en Provence Peony Its spicy-floral character works perfectly in many different florals though in small quantities; a known sensitiser for a very small percentage of wearers, its one of the ingredients which perfume houses must compulsorily list on a label. Today, we grow crocus in the garden often the first herald of spring. Fresh Love By Kilian Beyond Love Wed love to hear if you can tell them apart. Floris Tuberose Its richness allows for multiple ways to create with it,' says perfumer Caroline Sabas. A synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odor, cashmeran is used to invoke the velvety smell or "feel" of cashmere. Highly aromatic, merely brushing against the dark green leaves releases the potent scent, all varieties of the plant have some common characteristics - mostly perennial, mint simply adores to be near water, pools and in partial shade. ), Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta A chemical compound that smells floral at low concentrations, but fecal at high concentrations. While all our product fragrance ingredients are safe to use, we understand some people want to learn more. 9 Eau de New York To me, it smells confident, sexy, feminine, while exuding modernity through its green facet," says perfumer Natasha Ct. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Valentino Valentina. Max Mara Le Parfum Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville Britney Spears Believe Paul & Joe Blanc Lady Gaga Fame Raspberries quite often appear, nowadays, as part of a red berry accord in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents. A flower employed widely in perfumery. (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). Chopard Wish Alienor adds: 'It's smells like tea, actually.' Although linden - also known as tilleul in perfumery - can be extracted from the dried flowers, its usually recreated synthetically: beautifully sweet, exhilarating, bright as a summers day. But in the perfumers repertoire, its a pricy ($4,000+ a kilo), refined ingredient worth its weight in gold sometimes blended with synthetics that bring out its peachiness, however. Chanel No. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower We love this legend about vanilla which we found on the excellent Perfume Shrine blog. And who can resist the smell, either: soft, sweet and violet-like, and a touch fruity? Zing! Collection of agarwood from natural forests is now illegal under CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endanged Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), but some is now beginning to be plantation grown in Vietnam. Estee Lauder Beautiful Jo Malone London Red Roses Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli And Anthemis nobilis Roman camomile, English camomile, true camomile, call it what you will is sweet and heady, though also with an apple-iness. Lancme Hypnse And somewhat more heavy-handedly in home fragrance, loo cleaners and those taxi-cab car perfumes, Goutal Nuit Etoile For centuries, the essential oil of bergamot has had a close link to perfumery and scent, even used to scent small papier-mch boxes for keeping small precious mementos - like locks of hair and love letters. There are good pine smells, and horrid pine smells and if youve ever sat in the back of a taxi with one of those Christmas tree-scented cards dangling from the rear-view mirror, youll probably get where were coming from. Plus, when lab-made ingredients are used, they are subject to a safety screening. But it also reveals a soft yet surprising bitterness, when you taste it. Dior Diorissimo Amaretto on the rocks, anyone? Guerlain Samsara Do smell deep, though, and see if you can detect intrigue beneath the soft surface. But in fact, orange blossoms versatility lends itself to all kinds of fragrances so its very widely used, acting too as a natural fixative to prolong the life of will-o-the-wisp ingredients. But mostly, when encountered in fragrance, its a synthetic. Gucci Envy And its used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens. It can add sweet, sexy, smoky and mysterious nuances to a fragrance, and works gorgeously alongside rich florals and Ambre spices, giving hints of caramel or whiskey. Yves Saint Laurent La Collection Yvresse, The sacred herb;, the Romans called it and pretty sacred sage is, too, to perfumers. Bond No. As they have for thousands of years, these deciduous trees grow (impressively fast) in the Mediterranean and the Middle East although the fig note we smell in contemporary fragrances is actually quite likely to be synthetic, from ingredients which go by the name of stemone (it smells very green, and is produced by the fragrance house Givaudan) and octalactone gamma (more prune-like and sappy). Sun-dried, they make their way into all sorts of foods and have been used in Ambre medicine for over 3,000 years, for its stimulating effect on the digestion. Fragonard Mimosa Cartier Eau de Cartier Extrme 9 Benjoin Gucci Flora There are a couple of twists on petitgrain: a form known as citronnier is distilled from the leaves of the lemon tree, in Mediterranean areas; as youd imagine, its more yes lemony. Prada Infusion dIris Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Enchanted In Ambre structures,it has a sweet, comforting effect, taking you back to childhood. Symbolically, it stands for harmony, love and grace but in fact you can put an innocent spin on gardenia, or a racy one. Givenchy Ysatis BY Alyssa Montemurro And Kaitlin Clapinski Last Updated Dec 16, 2022 There's no shortage of buzz-worthy new perfume launches hitting shelves, all of which promise to reinvigorate our daily fragrance wardrobes. Others are reminded of angelica, frankincense and celery, while we love this quote from the blogger Boisdejasmin, when she dipped her testing strip into some opoponax: The wave of warm, sweet scent washed over me: it smelled of aged whiskey, mahogany shavings and bitter caramel, but it was also velvety and powdery. The resin is extracted from the bark of the Commiphora eyrthraea tree (mostly from Somalia), and is also known as sweet myrrh. Guerlain Jicky Dior Dune Sprinkled in the footprints of a lover, its said to keep them from wandering. Boucheron Japur Bracelet Escentric Molecules Molecule 03. Santalum album isnt actually a tree but a parasitic plant which grows by suckering itself to the roots of other trees, and slowly growing as high as 10 metres. As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh Something else to slip into your handbag, then: different dried fruits are now recreated in perfumery fantasy ingredients (i.e. Apples have been a part of fragrance creation right back to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. The Arabs used it in perfumery, then the Romans, who created a perfume called Narcissinum with the oil from whats become one of our favourite modern flowers. Balmain Eau dIvoire Unfortunately, the downside of citral is that it can lead to sensivities and allergies so IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) regulates that it has to be used only with other ingredients that prevent a sensitising effect, and insist its labelled. Whether you hide it or show it, it does its magic every single time., One of the main flower notes used in perfumery, rose is, shockingly, also one of the more expensive perfume ingredients. Can it be sex-in-a-bottle? GivenchyXeryus LArtisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire. Amouage Ciel Pour Femme This combo is unbeatable. Beauty The 35 Best Perfumes for Women for Every Occasion Get ready to meet your new signature scent. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection Oroville, Do orchids smell? Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Givenchy Amarige Weve been known to stand there, sniffing, for the sheer pleasure of it. LArtisan Parfumeur LEau de LArtisan Beeswax also works brilliantly as a fixative, helping to anchor will-o-the-wisp, volatile notes. LOccitane en Provence Neroli eau de parfum PradaNo9 Benjoin With a sharp balsamic-spicy, almost lemony scent, elemis invaluable as an incense ingredient and also for fixing perfumes, tethering ingredients which otherwise would fade fast. Santa Maria NovellaGinestra (Broom) Officina Profumo. Issey Miyake Pleats Please (We know many people who say that tomato leaf is their first scent memory, perhaps introduced by a much-loved grandparent who wants to share its so-distinctive, scented furriness.) (Theyre deeply alluring to slugs, as gardeners know.) "Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. LArtisan Parfumeur Jour de Fte Savvy perfumers know exactly which to use to get their desired effect, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea The bark, roots and resin are all still used to create incense for rituals, in Nepal, India and China (including Tibet - and acacia/mimosas used in mainstream perfumery, too: the scent has a warm, honey, iris-like, powdery airiness, which enriches the complexity of fragrances. It takes a lot of elderflower to produce a little essential oil so this note is usually recreated synthetically, to evoke that sweet, honey-like, floral-herby scent of this hedgerow plant. Jil Sander Jil The other precious member of the family is Sambac Jasmine sometimes known as Tuscan jasmine, or Arabian jasmine, depending on who youre speaking to Nowadays, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry everywhere from India to France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain and Morocco. Just that it can. It was first described in the 14th Century; the Arabs called benzoin frankincense of Java, and its had a seriously long tradition of use in pomanders, pot pourri, incense and soaps. Diptyque Tam Dao Givenchy Very Irresistible Guerlain Shalimar You might know it best from Caribbean jerk seasoning, or from Middle Eastern cuisine (or Thanksgivings pumpkin pie spice mix) and in perfumery, allspice offers a similarly warm, sensual, nutty quality. Evody Pomme dOr Its certainly possible to capture the airy sweetness of sweet peas, or Lathyrus odoratus which naturally smell somewhere between orange blossom and hyacinth, with a hint of rose through a process of extraction. L.VilloresPiper Negrum. Its a harvest for patient souls: juniper berries (which can be blue, red-brown or orange) take three years to ripen, and are steam-distilled to release their pungency. A fragrant oil can be solvent-extracted from the foamy blossoms of the Syringa plant (it comes from the Greek, meaning pipe: shepherds made flutes from lilac wood and it was believed that whoever heard their music would never forget it). Its the long leaves which are prized, rather than the tiny (and fleeting) white flowers. Isabella RosselliniManifesto And are you ready for the explanation of the name? Ralph Lauren Safari Its almost impossible to believe, actually, that this grounding, dry smell comes from the roots of a perennial grass also known as Khus-khus grass - rather than a wood. ), FreshCannabis Rose 'So far, I have used black pepper only once in my perfumes- together with a bundle of citrus and vetiver. Which is definitely the only instance of a plant getting its name from an actual fragrance: its far more usually the other way round, ChantecailleFrangipane Dior JAdore (Always hoping, of course, for a really sweet, juicy mandarin rather than the occasional disappointment of something a little tart) In Traditional Chinese Medicine, mandarin also has an important role: its used to regulate qi, or life-force and in China itself, the fruits still linked with good fortune and luck. It has a touch of pine to it: a bit sappy, a touch bitter, but definitely fresh and powerful, so its generally used in small doses. Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. Superb floraliser. In some cases, the juice of the fruit from the Musa sapientum plant is distilled. Once upon a time, dried fruits were a serious luxury, for the wealthy to enjoy in haute cuisine. Guerlain Shalimar The name neroli comes from a small Italian town near Rome, and a princess who lived there. (Although some gifted natural perfumers manage recreate the smell of honeysuckle through clever alchemy of other naturals) Depending on the other notes used, it can enhance a touch of aniseed, blend romantically with other white florals orange blossom and jasmine or add a fresh green note, GoutalParis Eau de Camille The Pheasants Eye Narcissus (a.k.a. Those of a certain age will be most familiar with edelweiss as the name of a song crooned by Christopher Plummer in the movie of The Sound of Music. Popular brands and perfumes. Byredo Rose Noir All of its perfumes are free of sulfates, phthalates, phosphates, and gluten, as well as free of microbeads. But long before that, myrrh was among the very first perfume ingredients used in prayer as well as perfumery itself: as far back as 3,700 years ago, priests and believers believed that the smoke of incense was the only thing which could cross the barrier between earth and heaven. (Lots of perfume notes work synergistically in this way, which is why perfumery is such a complex art.). Its generally recognised to be one of the more aphrodisiac, sensual note in the perfumers box of tricks. An all-round useful ingredient, and a dreamily-scented one at that. Browse this list for ingredients that you may not have realized are right on your neighborhood grocery shelf! Chanel Chance Nina Ricci Nina. They are French too, which means they are highly respected in the business. Evody Note de Luxe . The top offending perfume products were: JLo Glow Perfume, Axe Phoenix Body Spray, Marc Jacobs Daisy Perfume, Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Perfume, and White Linen Perfume by Este Lauder. At Unilever, we think there is a certain magic to fragrances - bringing together perfumery artistry and scientific expertise. Salts a flavour. An aromatic chemical that adds a sea breeze or marine-type note to fragrances, calone is a powder that is 100 percent man-made. I love to use it because it's big and powerful, very sensual. Once upon a time (in the Victorian/Edwardian era), carnation was hugely fashionable (and if you ever manage to get your hands on a bottle of Carons now-extinct Bellodgia, you can experience just why it was so beloved). Miller Harris Couer de Fleur For a while, attempts were made to keep civet cats in captivity including in Britain to ensure a ready supply of this perfume ingredient. Almond notes are very gourmand, with a foodie quality and most often enjoyed in fragrances within that almost good-enough-to-eat perfume family: almonds a less sweet alternative to vanilla, delivering a buttery or creamy impression. Brown Bobbis Party `` it turns a scent into a chypre, an! The Mediterranean synergistically in this way, which means they are highly respected in the garden the! Guerlain Shalimar the name ambergris or gray amber of it indie fragrance brands like.! 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